We went up to Onrus for the Onrus classic. We camped illegally in the campsite for 4 days successfully so accommodation was free. Contest didn't go well for me.. corruption. .Anyway had such a good time there and got super good waves. On the last day of the contest Len, Melt and myself surfed this big wave spot in onrus. It was easily 3times overhesad for stand up surfers and the swell was only 12ft. This wave has a mean paddle into deep waters and is super slabby on the inside. Super heavy duckdive aswell.
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Friday, December 11, 2009
Theres no escaping the South Easter
Got some super fun caves today. Was super nice in the morning with good section to bust. Mellowed out throughout the day and ended up being a good day.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Hossegor
Sorry about the delayed blog posts but I am on holiday too.
So today we missioned to caves. Woke up at 4:30. Ran to melts crib and was in the water by 6:00. It had a bit of morning sickness with the gnarliest closeouts I have ever seen there. Super heavy but lots of fun. Cleared out alot during the day and was really good at one stage.
Here are a few pics
Wacked out fun looking wave
mini keiki. it was super shallow
Mmmmmmm. yes please
Sly bastard
So today we missioned to caves. Woke up at 4:30. Ran to melts crib and was in the water by 6:00. It had a bit of morning sickness with the gnarliest closeouts I have ever seen there. Super heavy but lots of fun. Cleared out alot during the day and was really good at one stage.
Here are a few pics
Wacked out fun looking wave
mini keiki. it was super shallow
Mmmmmmm. yes please
Sly bastard
Saturday, December 5, 2009
tis the season to be jolly
Holidays have began and we have scored some wavies. Got some enjoyable caves Tuesday after school and more fun waves on Wednesday followed by some fun caves today.
After my surf at caves today we jumped the Gordons bay cliff. Was so fun, It is really so much higher than it looks. I feels like you are in the sky for an eternity. The is null swell lately so probably not getting waves tomorrow but later next week is looking promising.
A few photos
Those of you who have been to caves lately will be aware of the new water feature. Thanks to the idiot who broke the tap
Chandre Ivan with a mean cutback out the bowl
T-Bone Hoeben with a nice reverse
Waimea lookalike breaking 20meters from my house. pity its only 20cm tall
After my surf at caves today we jumped the Gordons bay cliff. Was so fun, It is really so much higher than it looks. I feels like you are in the sky for an eternity. The is null swell lately so probably not getting waves tomorrow but later next week is looking promising.
A few photos
Those of you who have been to caves lately will be aware of the new water feature. Thanks to the idiot who broke the tap
Chandre Ivan with a mean cutback out the bowl
T-Bone Hoeben with a nice reverse
Waimea lookalike breaking 20meters from my house. pity its only 20cm tall
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