Sunday, December 20, 2009


We went up to Onrus for the Onrus classic. We camped illegally in the campsite for 4 days successfully so accommodation was free. Contest didn't go well for me.. corruption. .Anyway had such a good time there and got super good waves. On the last day of the contest Len, Melt and myself surfed this big wave spot in onrus. It was easily 3times overhesad for stand up surfers and the swell was only 12ft. This wave has a mean paddle into deep waters and is super slabby on the inside. Super heavy duckdive aswell.

A few photos from the weekend

Sick wave we surfed. This wave is about 6-8ft

Shaun Joubert flying in onrus shorey

Diran flying

Mark Webster sick revo

Friday, December 11, 2009

Theres no escaping the South Easter

Got some super fun caves today. Was super nice in the morning with good section to bust. Mellowed out throughout the day and ended up being a good day.

I have burnt my eyes out of there sockets. ouchhhhhhhhh.

A couple of photos

Melt Hugo likes lefts

Im sure you would like to know how this gassed

Tom Pepler Oz style backflip

A photo of myself left air revo off backwash photo by Melt Hugo

Thursday, December 10, 2009


Sorry about the delayed blog posts but I am on holiday too.

So today we missioned to caves. Woke up at 4:30. Ran to melts crib and was in the water by 6:00. It had a bit of morning sickness with the gnarliest closeouts I have ever seen there. Super heavy but lots of fun. Cleared out alot during the day and was really good at one stage.

Here are a few pics

Wacked out fun looking wave

mini keiki. it was super shallow

Mmmmmmm. yes please

Sly bastard

Saturday, December 5, 2009

tis the season to be jolly

Holidays have began and we have scored some wavies. Got some enjoyable caves Tuesday after school and more fun waves on Wednesday followed by some fun caves today.

After my surf at caves today we jumped the Gordons bay cliff. Was so fun, It is really so much higher than it looks. I feels like you are in the sky for an eternity. The is null swell lately so probably not getting waves tomorrow but later next week is looking promising.

A few photos

Those of you who have been to caves lately will be aware of the new water feature. Thanks to the idiot who broke the tap

Chandre Ivan with a mean cutback out the bowl

T-Bone Hoeben with a nice reverse

Waimea lookalike breaking 20meters from my house. pity its only 20cm tall

Sunday, November 29, 2009

chemistry can suck my willy

I have decided that chemistry is not worth my time.

Today was not the best of days. Got caves and it was flat and onshore. chilled there for a bit. Rolled some rocks down the mountain and eventually 2 hours later a king fisherman stopped to give us a lift.

Got some super fun caves yesterday. Unfortunately i got no photos but William did and you can check them out on his blog . Hit my face on the sand trying a backflip on a wave breaking in ankle deep water. It was sore and I now look like scar face.

Here are a few random photos. And to those of you on holiday already fugg you!

Definitely worth surfing again

Im just a little birdie too

Wave I wake up hearing. sick setup yet I have only surfed it once

Swimming pool bodyboarding Mafoos

Boogi in the pool

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Silkies is my second home

So for most of us this is where it began. Charging "3-4ft" silkies as we called it then haha. Those were the days!

Silkies is this mellow tuby wave in the strand where most strand bodyboarders started. It's a sick little beach break that would be world class if it got bigger than 2ft. It has a got a super good setup with a reef that breaks and reforms as a sick little beach break.

We still have our fun there but with all the new blocks of flats being built the south easter doesn't hit it as much as it used to and the banks haven't been good for long.

As you can see it is in the town very much. Local swimming beach. This is a photo of me taken by my bro with a disposable underwater camera

My bro getting a nugget(same day)

Damiaan O'grady when he still bodyboarded

A more recent photo of me taken from the beach

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Delayed blog post

I have been super busy lately with exams. Have a pretty hectic week and besides that my cap was finished so I could not update blog. Have not taken any good photos lately but have scored siiick caves. Was super good sunday morning and even better yesterday.

Holidays are literally 5 school days away so i am super amped. Hopefully we get some good swell in.

a few randoms

I didnt have my camera yesterday at caves but this is a mind photo that I took of Wesley Potts flipping out of a huge bowl and I put the mind photo onto paper by means of hand. whahaha this is what I do when I finish my exam 1 hour early.


Thats West Coast for you

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

South Easter Sooths exam Stress

Wrote english today so got that alliteration crap stuck in my head.

Missioned to koeel bay today and actually got some waves in this gale force offshore winds. The wind raped us. But we surfed it alone and was good practice. Took a few photos after I surfed and before I paddled in so no action photos.

Looks like koeel bay this weekend kids. Hopefully going to get fun caves and im hoping that the whole capetown crew doesn't pull in again for a mission.

Anyway for those of you writing exams good luck.

I leave you with some photos

The setup

lone soldier


I realize how boring it can be to read a blog post without any action photos so here is a photo of myself busting a big role at caves last December.

Photo by Cobus Bosman.

Monday, November 16, 2009

That post I said I would get back to

Looking back at it i realize how pissy I was.

Waves were max 8ft on the biggest sets. Had I surfed it now I probably would have busted. I must say that bay view must be the heaviest wave I have surfed. It wasn't too big but dam that wave is slabby. It is super hollow on the slabs and to top it off we surfed it on spring low. I saw some sets about 8ft sucking dry over huge slabs which is probably what scared me the most. I snapped my leash when i abandoned my board in an effort to get under a mother of an outside set and had to swim as deep as i can. I made it but my board was already almost by the rocks by the time the wave let go of me. This was followed by about 4 other sets that I luckily got underneath before they broke. Then I swam for about 45min to get out and found my board washed up in a rock pool almost 1km from the waves.

Some photos from the day

I actually did a sick invert here but photo man missed it somehow

Whoever said bay view isnt hollow can suck my nuts

Saturday, November 14, 2009


Discovered this new reggaedutchtechnoband last night at a club.

Its pretty friekin awesome so get there music Got a few waves this arvo at pipe. was fun.

Exams are in full force and not surfing much. Hopefully getting good waves tomorrow. A few photos to tickle you pickle

Yes please

A tad blown out

What a sensation

Thursday, November 12, 2009


The exams are getting to me and all these big words I have had to learn for science are now stuck in my head.

For those of you that are superstitious and do not yet know tomorrow is Friday the 13th.....and I'm writing maths...

The swell forecasts are being superuncoool lately so looks like poop waves this weekend but its clearing up nicely on Sunday so maybe some nice wedges.

Have not been able to get waves this week. Which in turn means no new photos for me but maybe for you. These are some photos from the past weekend

Backdoor Hoeben. Yes he made it.

Me hitting some turbulence

Im quite grateful to know where this wave is

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Morning glory

The past weekend me and a couple of friends really have been the early birds. We woke up early each morning for waves. We got what we went for and much more. Uncrowded reefs alone both days 3-4 hours before the crowds arrived.

On Sunday we did the walk in the rain, but the waves we got definitely made up for the walk up through swampy mud and wet clothes for the 40min trip back home.

Here are 3 photos I got over the weekend

The treasure at the end of the rainbow

Mathew joying the spoils of uncrowded reef

One of the better ones to come through

Sunday, November 8, 2009


I could just copy and paste my previous post but that would just be lame.

Today got up at 5:30 again to mission to the same spot again. Got very good waves. Got a bit crowded but we definitely got our fair share of waves.

Had a good, long session and a few nice photos taken by Malcom Schutte top notch photographer. Not really but he still got some crazy shots in.

A few photos looking alot like yesterdays post

I wont lie this does look like a animated picure

Looks like coen sneaky snaking technique did work

Maybe not the best ARS but a nice photo anyway

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Gaseous exchange

Okay so maybe i did get waves today.

Day started early. Woke up at 5:35 to get ready for a surf mission. Got into the town of choice it was flat. Strong offshore winds but flat. So we missioned a bit further along the coast and it was just as flat. Took a few photos, got back into the car andd back to spot 1. Waves were alot bigger than they seemed and got a few photos there as well. Ended up having such good waves and hoping that tomorrow is just as good.

Some photos to feed your wave fetishness haha

The wave we checked in the morning but was a bit small. This a freakish set that nobody knows where it came from

What we ended up surfing

Papa-bear coenraad showing us how its done (photo by M.Lombaard)