ManArise: BIG small WAVES

So the day started like this: wake up early morning to try find a lift to the beach. Ended up getting a lift with this brudda from my class. So we first head to Paranoia point and its about 4ft, not exactly what we were hoping for. Then we mission to Pringle reef and its not even peaking and to top it off the wind is onshore. So we head on to Betties where we are greeted with 6ft messy close outs. We were starting to loose hope.We headed on to Onrus were we found an out of control beach break and some crazy unsurfed reefs that look like fucking Luna park. I haven't even seen a wave gas like this one on a dvd. But it looked bigger than what we could handle and was inconsistent. Our last bit of hope was Bay View and we were expecting it to be huge as well, but it wasn't. It was about 6-8ft with the occasional freak set(about 10ft)and breaking on the inside slab, sucking dry on the occasional set. WE WERE PUMPED. I was a bit nervous to paddle in but just went for it. It was sick. Bay view is a big wave spot that demands constant focus when surfing. We were getting some sick waves. Seeing as it was breaking on the slab sections and it was low tide it was making some crazy steps and throwing some wide barrels and scaring the shit out of me. Towards the end of the session I caught a smaller wave to get out the water but didn't quite catch it. When i turned around I was faced with a BIGGG one and didn't even try duck dive, just swam down! Anyway my leash snapped and I was left with no other option but to swim. I got nailed by the sets that followed and when it looked calmer I began my swim out of this place. The swim went surprisingly fast and after looking for about 30min I found my board lying in a rock pool far away from bay view and she survived without any holes in it. Just shows what waves have the power of doing.