Looking back at it i realize how pissy I was.
Waves were max 8ft on the biggest sets. Had I surfed it now I probably would have busted. I must say that bay view must be the heaviest wave I have surfed. It wasn't too big but dam that wave is slabby. It is super hollow on the slabs and to top it off we surfed it on spring low. I saw some sets about 8ft sucking dry over huge slabs which is probably what scared me the most. I snapped my leash when i abandoned my board in an effort to get under a mother of an outside set and had to swim as deep as i can. I made it but my board was already almost by the rocks by the time the wave let go of me. This was followed by about 4 other sets that I luckily got underneath before they broke. Then I swam for about 45min to get out and found my board washed up in a rock pool almost 1km from the waves.
Some photos from the day
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