Sunday, November 29, 2009

chemistry can suck my willy

I have decided that chemistry is not worth my time.

Today was not the best of days. Got caves and it was flat and onshore. chilled there for a bit. Rolled some rocks down the mountain and eventually 2 hours later a king fisherman stopped to give us a lift.

Got some super fun caves yesterday. Unfortunately i got no photos but William did and you can check them out on his blog http://fakinchill.blogspot.com/ . Hit my face on the sand trying a backflip on a wave breaking in ankle deep water. It was sore and I now look like scar face.

Here are a few random photos. And to those of you on holiday already fugg you!



Definitely worth surfing again



Im just a little birdie too



Wave I wake up hearing. sick setup yet I have only surfed it once



Swimming pool bodyboarding Mafoos



Boogi in the pool

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Silkies is my second home

So for most of us this is where it began. Charging "3-4ft" silkies as we called it then haha. Those were the days!

Silkies is this mellow tuby wave in the strand where most strand bodyboarders started. It's a sick little beach break that would be world class if it got bigger than 2ft. It has a got a super good setup with a reef that breaks and reforms as a sick little beach break.

We still have our fun there but with all the new blocks of flats being built the south easter doesn't hit it as much as it used to and the banks haven't been good for long.



As you can see it is in the town very much. Local swimming beach. This is a photo of me taken by my bro with a disposable underwater camera






My bro getting a nugget(same day)



Damiaan O'grady when he still bodyboarded



A more recent photo of me taken from the beach

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Delayed blog post

I have been super busy lately with exams. Have a pretty hectic week and besides that my cap was finished so I could not update blog. Have not taken any good photos lately but have scored siiick caves. Was super good sunday morning and even better yesterday.

Holidays are literally 5 school days away so i am super amped. Hopefully we get some good swell in.

a few randoms



I didnt have my camera yesterday at caves but this is a mind photo that I took of Wesley Potts flipping out of a huge bowl and I put the mind photo onto paper by means of hand. whahaha this is what I do when I finish my exam 1 hour early.



MMMMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmm



Thats West Coast for you

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

South Easter Sooths exam Stress

Wrote english today so got that alliteration crap stuck in my head.

Missioned to koeel bay today and actually got some waves in this gale force offshore winds. The wind raped us. But we surfed it alone and was good practice. Took a few photos after I surfed and before I paddled in so no action photos.

Looks like koeel bay this weekend kids. Hopefully going to get fun caves and im hoping that the whole capetown crew doesn't pull in again for a mission.

Anyway for those of you writing exams good luck.

I leave you with some photos




The setup



lone soldier



Backwash-insano

I realize how boring it can be to read a blog post without any action photos so here is a photo of myself busting a big role at caves last December.



Photo by Cobus Bosman. http://sheepalign.blogspot.com/

Monday, November 16, 2009

That post I said I would get back to

Looking back at it i realize how pissy I was.

Waves were max 8ft on the biggest sets. Had I surfed it now I probably would have busted. I must say that bay view must be the heaviest wave I have surfed. It wasn't too big but dam that wave is slabby. It is super hollow on the slabs and to top it off we surfed it on spring low. I saw some sets about 8ft sucking dry over huge slabs which is probably what scared me the most. I snapped my leash when i abandoned my board in an effort to get under a mother of an outside set and had to swim as deep as i can. I made it but my board was already almost by the rocks by the time the wave let go of me. This was followed by about 4 other sets that I luckily got underneath before they broke. Then I swam for about 45min to get out and found my board washed up in a rock pool almost 1km from the waves.

Some photos from the day








I actually did a sick invert here but photo man missed it somehow




Whoever said bay view isnt hollow can suck my nuts

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Gazelle

Discovered this new reggaedutchtechnoband last night at a club.

Its pretty friekin awesome so get there music Got a few waves this arvo at pipe. was fun.

Exams are in full force and not surfing much. Hopefully getting good waves tomorrow. A few photos to tickle you pickle



Yes please




A tad blown out



What a sensation

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Superjuxtapositioning

The exams are getting to me and all these big words I have had to learn for science are now stuck in my head.

For those of you that are superstitious and do not yet know tomorrow is Friday the 13th.....and I'm writing maths...

The swell forecasts are being superuncoool lately so looks like poop waves this weekend but its clearing up nicely on Sunday so maybe some nice wedges.

Have not been able to get waves this week. Which in turn means no new photos for me but maybe for you. These are some photos from the past weekend




Backdoor Hoeben. Yes he made it.



Me hitting some turbulence



Im quite grateful to know where this wave is

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Morning glory

The past weekend me and a couple of friends really have been the early birds. We woke up early each morning for waves. We got what we went for and much more. Uncrowded reefs alone both days 3-4 hours before the crowds arrived.

On Sunday we did the walk in the rain, but the waves we got definitely made up for the walk up through swampy mud and wet clothes for the 40min trip back home.

Here are 3 photos I got over the weekend



The treasure at the end of the rainbow



Mathew joying the spoils of uncrowded reef




One of the better ones to come through

Sunday, November 8, 2009

DEJAVU

I could just copy and paste my previous post but that would just be lame.

Today got up at 5:30 again to mission to the same spot again. Got very good waves. Got a bit crowded but we definitely got our fair share of waves.

Had a good, long session and a few nice photos taken by Malcom Schutte top notch photographer. Not really but he still got some crazy shots in.

A few photos looking alot like yesterdays post


I wont lie this does look like a animated picure




Looks like coen sneaky snaking technique did work




Maybe not the best ARS but a nice photo anyway

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Gaseous exchange

Okay so maybe i did get waves today.

Day started early. Woke up at 5:35 to get ready for a surf mission. Got into the town of choice it was flat. Strong offshore winds but flat. So we missioned a bit further along the coast and it was just as flat. Took a few photos, got back into the car andd back to spot 1. Waves were alot bigger than they seemed and got a few photos there as well. Ended up having such good waves and hoping that tomorrow is just as good.

Some photos to feed your wave fetishness haha




The wave we checked in the morning but was a bit small. This a freakish set that nobody knows where it came from



What we ended up surfing




Papa-bear coenraad showing us how its done (photo by M.Lombaard)

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Yum Yum Yum Yummmmm


Really was not planning on getting waves today


Got to caves and it looked average. Got in crowded as heck but still managed to get nuggets. Carried on getting better and better until it was solid 3ft perfect wedges just in time for me to leave.

Anyway got cooking wedges for about 45min an had a good surf.




The setup



Big roll on a powerful section at S.A champs

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

IDONTHAVEMUCHTOSAY

I dont have much to say today.

Having quite a crappy flat spell.

All blown out.

But desperate times call for desperate measures so i will probably make a mission to go tomorrow or friday. Need a bit of practice for saterdays contest




Check the wind swell for the weekend



A place a wish i was still surfing


Tuesday, October 20, 2009

hallelujah


Summer is almost here.


Therefore sand banks are recovering and my favorite wave will soon be producing the goods.

Getting a new board this week. Getting amped for the weekend.

There is a small contest on in camps bay this weekend. swell is looking filthy so not gonna get much wave but amped for the beach

Enjoi your week

Some photos from my stash





Nice fun reef break



Darren halse back flip



Nice spray

Friday, October 16, 2009

PC under attack

Apparently my computer has 1000 virus's.

Thats a real shitter.

Going to loose a good amount of photos so im pretty bummed.

Got home from a camp today and it was looking like a koel-bay-day. So dialed a lift and got there with lightning speed. ha. Surfed until the sun was down. Got some siiiiick wedges.

Here are a few pics to please you




Darren Halse with a nice invert up the west coast




unsurfed West coast beach break



Me at the waveshouse Durban while waiting for flight after S.A champs last year

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

wind+sun=DEATH

Please understand that it is spring and that the combination of wind+sun=DEATH. Getting blown away down here with the pumping South easterly winds that are known to blow this time of the year. Wind swell. Blown out offshore days. Whats not to love. Atleast with the changing of seasons we know that summer is on its way and our favorite beachies will soon be pumping again.

Been having a hectic week. Exams coming up and not getting all that time to bodyboard. I got some waves yesterday at a nice beach/reef break with some cranking lefts and fun right handers. Landed a nice flip in the first 30min and then practiced my lefts.

Going on a church camp this weekend(woohoo) so not going to be having waves. Or updating the blog' Should have some good stories to share after the weekend.

Here is a nice sequence of myself doing a nice reverse at my local break.

Photos by Chris Joubert





Take off








The money shot






DISCLAIMER: ALL PHOTOS USED ON THIS BLOG NOT TAKEN BY ME HAVE BEEN USED WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE PHOTOGRAPHERS